

My component list is small, generic things go in a tackle box, like they use for fishing. And things that are project specific stay in a small box for that project. It’s not perfect, but it works well enough.


My component list is small, generic things go in a tackle box, like they use for fishing. And things that are project specific stay in a small box for that project. It’s not perfect, but it works well enough.


www.cutlistoptimizer.com is great when working on a plywood project and you want to optimize wood usage.


Looking at the datasheet for the lm311, the output is a transistor (I think it’s shown on your schematic), the reason you need a pull-up on it is because it has no bias or power. That will let it pull the voltage down. If you’re noting that it doesn’t rise fast enough, try making that 100k smaller, give it some more strength.
. The 741 on the other hand has a pair of transistors on the output stage, attached to +v and -v so it can push and pull the output


What’s your schematic with the lm311 ? Input impedances, output impedance, voltages, etc


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It’s likely a ratio of water area to corpse volume. With a multiplier on presence (visibility, smell, people talking about it, and hell, if the corpse is making noise that I hear, there’s no chance I’m getting in that water)


The clearance you need for 1 Megavolt means that you need something like 45ft between your terminals to avoid arcing. I suggest a slightly higher than 5A limit on your new USB spec
As opposed to normal objects, the mass of a tennis ball is inversely proportional to its size.


Tears, the music disc in Minecraft. That song rocks


With this administration, it will likely be resolved by paying the ballroom fees


Hell, ask your boss if you can expense the headphones because of the other guy. Make it a cost problem.


And the end of the electrolytic cap looks okay? (The blue can). If that thing spit out over all the parts, maybe it can explain the mess.
Otherwise, it feels like something is heating up in an undesired way. This could be something downstream of some filtering capacitor that is now dead?
If you had a thermal camera, it would tell you a lot, but not necessarily point at the bad part. Can you get more run time with a fan? (Not a permanent solution)


I’m reaching my limit here (I do small electronics) but that cap looks like it’s on the primary side of power in, so it’s rated for power line in. (Hence the high voltage rating).
What is the tv doing/not doing? If any of the LEDs (power led) turn on at all, I would guess that it’s not that side of the circuit. (I don’t know much about TVs, but these are always the questions I ask for troubleshooting)
Edit: looking at the debris near that part, something went. is the fuse okay? Is the mess localized around there?


The capacitor rating is 203j, that’s 0.02uf at 5%. It doesn’t LOOK burnt to me. Is this a CRT board?


So what, we have another billionaire? Or does the genie enslave them too?


Do they make one with the reverse side “I did this” Biden pointing?
This, but also isn’t that how genetics works? You’re not going to see a native Chihuahua thriving in the arctic.
(But it’s probably something about what countries actually do testing, etc. )
I keep the digikey labels. (Or other stores) Usually in the shipping baggies.